Verveine - Fish Restaurant - Milford-on-Sea

Verveine - A must try and very special indeed!

How many of you I wonder have a great relationship with your parents but somehow still have this sense that you’re not quite good enough and could do better? Eventually, if you’re like me, that changes from a consuming frustration into a resigned amusement and a few tricks to protect you from disappointment. One of my favourites is when you are asked for your advice or to make a recommendation, which in a similar fashion to the Christmas present you laboured over, is subsequently met with a polite but underwhelmed half-smile and that ‘has he got the receipt’ look or perhaps even a damning critique in the case of a restaurant or venue. I’ve learnt that, to avoid the backlash usually accompanying suggestions that are right for you but typically not for them, the best solution is to box a little more cleverly.

I had a fabulous opportunity to prove this the other day, because my lovely parents that I do adore asked if I could recommend a restaurant in the area. Those that know me will appreciate that I can recommend loads but instead I suggested they try Verveine in Milford on Sea which I told them I knew nothing about but would love their opinion on, as it had recently opened at the rear of the infamous Mr Monk’s Fishmongers, now run by Stacey Crouch and David Wykes. In one fell swoop I had shamefully removed myself from the driving seat and any responsibility for the outcome of an evening with their friends. Imagine my smug pleasure when they came back and thanked me for the ‘recommendation’ as it was one ‘of the best meals they have had in the area!’ No risk and a positive result... perfect...

Well almost perfect of course, because I’m now feeling like I’m missing out on something that they’ve been talking about ever since and, like not being allowed to watch Doctor Who all those years ago, I simply had to hide on the stairs so to speak and go and find out for myself.

A couple of weeks later I therefore find myself with great friends and fellow parents welcomed at the door by the lovely Stacey and Jon, who many will remember from Wistaria in Lymington. The entrance through the street-fronting shop is very London and elevates the experience immediately and I’m a fussy git, so the bright and spotless decor didn’t go unnoticed either. Stepping down into the restaurant area reminded me of all those movies where luxury liners and speakeasies always seemed to have a staircase down to them and Stacey has done a great job of emphasising the fishy theme without going over the top. Less is so much more in this instance too and I loved the clever balance of informality and quality.

A few aperitifs and the first of many ‘surprises’ later, Stacey came to the table and explained their unique menu which is totally based on the best catches of the day and choices of four garnishes to go with them as main courses. I think it’s the first time I was able to choose what I eat based on the actual fish rather than being influenced in advance by what sauce the chef has already forced on an otherwise innocent and delicious fish in its own right. I had oysters as a starter (ever the optimist) and my friends and ‘the blonde’ had a variety of delights, again seasonally appropriate. At a timely juncture after the first course we were then presented with another surprise and whilst I’d love to shout about them, it would be like telling you the end of a movie or the score on a big game you’ve recorded so you’ll have to find out for yourself.

As Ramsey is to swearing and Novelli is to women, so Wykes is to fish and without exception our mains were all cooked to perfection. We had the full compliment between us, of the garnishes and each one complimented its chosen partner perfectly. The portions are generous but not overwhelming and to clear your plate wanting more is my idea of the perfect course.

The deserts are not an afterthought by any means either and are mostly deconstructed classics which are totally in keeping with the delicate nature of fish eating. To that end, we ate like kings throughout, but not once do you feel that heavy overindulged weight towards the end of your evening, rather that you’ve just done your body a wealth of good without sacrificing any of the pleasure.

Just when you’re sadly thinking the wonderful theatre is coming to an end, more surprises come like an encore and the only downer is, that much as I would have liked to phone my parents and tell them they’re deluded, I simply can’t. Verveine is as good as they told me it was and though it may be the new kid on the block, it’s in my top favourites list already. It ticks so many boxes with flying colours; ambience, service, style, taste, comfort, fun and lovable hosts etc. Etc. Please, please go and perhaps tell Stacey we recommended it. Get there before your parents do because unless they’re completely crazy, it is one place you can recommend without fear of negative feedback and with Christmas coming, I can’t think of a better gift too. (Gift Vouchers are available.)

Top notch indeed! JS

For more information and sample menus, please visit www.verveine.co.uk or call 01590 642176