The Fleur De Lys - Review

Fleur De Lys - En route to glory and really, really good!

Deserted by my family in favour of the 'in-laws' this week, I found myself not only surrounded by the kind of silent vacuum a five year old can leave in a house when he's not there but also somewhat at a loose end. It was with great enthusiasm therefore that my old friend Paul Close the Photographer and I decided to have what we laughingly and latterly referred to as a Brokeback Mountain moment along with my new friend Steven Westall at The Fleur De Lys.

I'd been due to visit this well known pub in Pilley for a while and regretably hadn't got round to it.........(what a berk!) Anyway at the kind invitation of Steven; Paul and I were provided with a great table under the restored Dovecot in the garden, where we embarked on what I can only describe as a really satisfying evening. It's been a while since I went out with 'the boys' and a the risk of a reputation, I really enjoyed it. Steven despite his attentive and meticulous eye always half on the other covers enjoying their meals, was able to sit with us occasionaly and create what I can only refer to as a Top Gear threesome type atmosphere with the right mix of laughter and mutual interest in blokey type things.

I was so impressed with Steven's self-effacing and understated approach to what amounts to a massive achievement in restaurant and culinary terms and The Fleur De Lys I am delighted to report has been transformed into an absolute cracker. Now Steven; I have concluded on first encounters is a strong silent type with a wicked sense of humour tucked in there for good measure. I say this because this isn't just another nicey nicey 'gastro pub', it is a proper restaurant, with a proper Chef and proper Management. That requires a clear identity, a sense of purpose and a certain boldness to boot. It also requires dogged determination and the courage of your convictions. A restaurant audience can be quite cynical and even fickle, so aiming so high can be risky, especially in a place like this. Well I have news for you guys, in my humble opinion they've really, really pulled it off.

The menu is initially a surprise, because it has a lot more depth than I'd anticipated but it wasn't long before my starter of Smoked Salmon and Crab with Horseradish and Caviar Creme Fraiche had my taste buds moving up the gears in eager anticipation of an equally thrilling main course. Sure enough it didn't disappoint and if you want a New Forest Venison, wrapped in Parma ham and fine herbs, with poached pear; fine green beans and dauphinoise potato, then you will not find a better one within a hundred miles. The meat was succulent, tender and cooked just right and the whole plate extremely well balanced.

I confess that the evening was warm and sitting outside in such immaculately presented surroundings can but enhance any dining experience, but to be honest even if I had been inside, the food quality is so high and the attention to detail so refined, I'm sure I would be similarly complimentary. I suspect that Steven is already planning his Autumn and Winter indoor strategy already, and I look forward to seeing what he has in store.

Following my Champagne Creme Brulee & Rose Sorbet, and as the evening drew to a close we talked about the fact that you only get out what you put in to all sorts of life's challenges. Steven has certainly put his heart and soul into this place and I truly believe he deserves the success I can already sense is heading his way. Whatever happens in years to come, Steven's name is now on the infamous board and it always will be! We say here long may he reign.

If you have high expectations when you go out to eat and feel that you have earned the right to eat well and be treated well, then The Fleur De Lys will suit you down to the ground. As for you B&B owners and Hoteliers, if you want happy guests to come back again and again, I can say that a recommendation here will stand you in very good stead. JS

For a sample menu & prices CLICK HERE!

Fleur De Lys - Pilley Street, Pilley, Lymington. SO41 5QG
Tel: 01590 672158

The young and gifted Lance - Head Chef (Pictured below)