“Classical style of cooking, with combinations that work and presentations that look delightfully straightforward. Take a first course of roast monkfish. It doesn’t arrive in a row of other constructions on an oblong plate, but sits simply in a puddle of bright red sauce, an intense tomato concoction spiked with chili and ginger – a terrific, perfectly balanced, highly subtle dish. Great pains are taken to get the obvious things up to a dizzying standard, so rack of lamb impresses for the resonance of its flavour, its fine crust of breadcrumbs and herbs, and the impeccably made aubergine charlotte it comes with. A copybook sticky, stocky red wine sauce, adds depth. Menu billings are no-nonsense in their brevity, offering maybe by roast quail with parsley risotto, followed maybe by steamed fillet of turbot with creamed leeks in champagne sauce. Finish with peach and almond tart with pistachio ice cream”